Like days and days, perhaps even weeks in cooler temps. Stock preservation: Boiled linseed oil is indeed the stuff to preserve wood… but it can take forever to dry to a non-tacky finish on a stock in some areas of the country. “Food grade” doesn’t mean that you eat it, but that it can be thought of as being “generally safe” to use, unlike many of the oils based on petroleum distillates.Ģ. For dry, dusty areas with fine blowing dust (much of the Great Basin region of the US, or southwest TX/NM/AZ), look into graphite or moly-based dry film lubes.įor people who want something non-toxic and food grade, examine Ballistol and Froglube. It works OK for most everything, especially semi-autos where I’m going to run them sopping wet. I’ve started testing MilTec-1, have not used FrogLube (about which I’ve heard rather lofty claims).įor guns that I use or lube often, I make my own “bulk lube” from ATF (Mercon-III will work fine), synthetic motor oil, STP and Marvel Mystery Oil. Those boys at Boeing ain’t idiots.įor lubrication, think in terms of lubes that won’t run off or evaporate in high heat, are still lubricating (and not gumming up or congealing) at -30F. In general, I like Boeing’s lubricants, whether we’re talking about Boelube for tapping/drilling/threading or Boeshield. Boeshield is good because it won’t act as a solvent on plastics, varnishes, etc. These will have to be removed when you want to use the gun, but they will prevent rust in even the most humid and salty environments if applied correctly. RIG gun grease, Cosmoline, LPS-3, Boeshield T-9 are all good rust prevention products in areas with high humidity and salt water exposure. Sorry for rambling, I'll end with saying try it if you don't like it, you're only out $3, and it probably won't be harmful, but keep an eye on it.When thinking of lubes and rust prevention, it’s best for people in high-rust areas (the high humidity south, or coastal areas near salt water) to think of lubrication and rust prevention as two distinct issues and use two different products on guns that won’t be shot/cleaned/lubricated on a frequent basis. of CLP or whatever is my current favorite will last a long time, and at less than $5 is not really a major expense. I don't know how liberally you use oil, but I probably use less than 4 oz. I doubt most lube points in firearms are really extreme environments for me a good gun oil will stay more or less where I applied it, will work as a corrosion inhibitor, will not oxidize turning gummy & sticky, and most definitely doesn't smell like S.A.E 140 gear oil Penetrating oils are gererally lousy as lubricants. WD40 is designed to "creep" (Kroil does it better though). Some run off the surfaces while others stick and have some rust inhibiting properties. Some oils are for high-temperature environments. 10W30 acts somewhat as a coolant as well as a lubricant. Oils are "designed" to do different things some are for extreme pressure, like differential gear oil. Been a while since I've bought any, but it's most likely under $2/qt. In a dire pinch, you could get away with salad oil for a while.ġ0W30 is even cheaper at WallyMart.
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